I like Chicago Diners
Within five miles, shooting out in any direction from the house in which I grew up, were at least six diners. I'm defining "diner" as a restaurant with the following characteristics:
1) An extensive menu featuring at least some items that could be described as inappropriately ethnic (e.g. chop suey in a restaurant owned by Greeks)
2) Breakfast must be available whenever the restaurant is open
3) The restaurant has a robust smoking session, often peopled with alcoholic anonymous refugees
4) Cops have to eat there a lot, and
5) If not open twenty-four hours (much preferable) the restaurant should open very early and stay open very late.
In turn, there are a few standard unwritten diner rules:
1) If you're smart, you stuck to the basics. The chop suey could be dangerous. Hamburgers, scrambled eggs, etc. were the way to go.
2) If you fail to leave a tip, you are an idiot, regardless of how poor you might be. Those waitresses work their asses off.
3) No diner waitresses are ever hot.
4) You stand by the rotating cake case and wait for a booth or table.
5) Booths are better than tables.
I grew up in Chicago's Norwood Park neighborhood. Now, when I lived there, Norwood Park was a conservative Catholic working class enclave. Most residents were firemen or policemen, or they worked in some other profession that required one to live within the city limits. You see, Norwood Park is about as far northwest in the Chicago city limits as a person can go. The last few stations on the O'Hare line sit on the last few miles of the Kennedy Expressway. I understand that now Norwood Park is a more desirable place to live, especially in the neighborhood we called "The Circle". The houses in "The Circle" were old mansions that, I'm sure, appeal to the affluent building rehabilitation set. I don't know the new Norwood Park well. I've been gone from Chicago for close to eight years, and I didn't live in Norwood Park the last few years I lived in Chicago. I know the Norwood Park of the seventies and eighties, back when retirees and city workers looking for reasonable housing in a neighborhood noticibly free of minorities (and don't think the racism was hidden...you should have heard my dad and his friends talk) populated the area.
And we all ate at diners.
Think about it. If you're a cop, or a teacher, a retired guy living off a pension, or a teenager with only a couple bucks on you, the diners were your story. Sure, Higgins Avenue featured an Asian place or two, over near Harlem, and a pizza place stood on every few corners, but if you just wanted normal food, and you wanted to go out in the neighborhood, chances are you gravitated toward one of the diners. Let me walk through the advantages for a sample of subgroups:
1) Families could usually find at least one item that the kids could eat, since the menus often featured four or five pages covered with tiny black print.
2) Retirees could sit at the counter and drink coffee without getting bothered much by the waitresses or the somewhat suspicious owner (often from a foreign country).
3) Cops, firemen, etc., took advantage of the expansive hours and both 1 and 2.
4) Teenagers could drink hot tea or get fries for a couple of bucks then sit in the booths for hours. This was especially handy mid-winter.
I want to be clear that I'm not romanticizing diners much, although I do want to pay tribute to what they've meant in my life. Some of the diners were bad, and no amount of memory-coloring is going to transform Mr. K's godawful food into edibility. What I liked about the diners in my old neighborhood, however, is the idea that everyone in a diner spoke my cultural language. From the waitresses to the way you stood and waited for a table near the rotating cakes to the four in the morning breakfasts, I knew where I stood and never felt self-conscious (unless, as a teenager, I took a date to one, I suppose) within their walls. If I were to return to one of the diners today and discover they've adopted tofu hamburgers or something, I hope, at least, that the new items are isolated in tiny print on a new page six. I also want to make it clear that the cool hipster Chicago diners (like that horrible one in Wicker Park, the Busy Bee, I think it's called) absolutely do not count in this conversation for reasons I would think are obvious. Were the denizens of these establishments to show up, accidentally, at, say, The Golden Flame, I would hope they would be dealt with swiftly and severely. Cool yuppie hipsters looking for a backdrop to cocktail party stories should be stopped at the door and escorted to the parking lot by a Polish waitress weighing at least three hundred and fifty pounds. In the parking lot she should threaten the interlopers with sexual favors or at least boozy kisses. Stay out of my childhood, you bastards.
Ok, these are the big six Norwood Park diners, in descending order for worst to best. I have no idea if they are still open, as I haven't been back to the neighborhood for a few years.
6) The Skylark, just east of Higgins and Harlem. The Skylark loses points first and foremost because of its short hours. I think it was more of a lunch place. I remember almost nothing about its food. The better dressed old folks hung out at the Skylark. It was small, dark, and way more clean than the other restaurants on this list. I think the almost grandmotherly cleanliness and bad hours kept us away. I ate there once with my brother. I can't remember another visit.
5) Mr. K's, just south of Higgins and Harlem. Mr. K's smelled like horribly burnt grease, like they ran a vent from the grill and piped the stale air right above your table. I hated that fucking place, but my hippie brother liked it, so we had to go there sometimes (I remember once, in particular, before a Neil Young concert). Mr. K's was more open, in terms of space, then other diners, and resembled a larger, remodeled McDonald's (down to the huge glowing "K" sign) with sparse, tasteless food.
4) The Big Top, just east of Nagle and Higgins. The Big Top claimed to have "World Famous Fountain Creations", so perhaps, somewhere in Vienna, learned scholars are discussing the merits of the Big Top hot fudge sundaes. The Big Top was huge with the morning factory crowd. The restaurant featured a row of booths next to a long glass window. The food was servicable, I suppose, but the bathrooms were disgusting.
3) The Golden Flame, on the southwest corner of Nagle and Higgins. My mom liked The Golden Flame. We went there for Thanksgiving dinner once (really!) and she ordered the turkey. Her order interested both my brother and myself because nobody in our family ever went that deep into the menu, even on a food-related holiday. Kudos to my mom for taking a huge risk. A white slab of turkey arrived and my mother pronounced it decent. I remember a lot of the precinct captains headquartered in the Golden Flame's dark back booths. My brother claims the owner kicked him out when he tried to make a phone call in the entryway while not wearing shoes. He has not forgiven the establishment despite the fact he lives in Boulder, Colorado, and visits Chicago once every five years. About ten years ago the Golden Flame added a room for wedding receptions. I'm not sure, in turn, if the restaurant still counts underneath the diner definition. This will take some thought.
2) Sally's, right across the street from Mr. K's. Now, Sally's was bigge than the others on this list, with at least two large dining rooms. The restaurant made a claim similar to the Big Top, but not as extensive, concerning the fame of its apple pancakes. Sally's sign said only the apple pancakes were famous, rather than "world famous" and, truth be told, I agree. I've had people from all over the city refer to Sally's as the "apple pancake place", so I can't fault the owners for their advertising. Sally's always seemed a bit more ambitious than its rivals, anyway. They added extra space onto the building at least a couple of times that I remember. I had nothing against Sally's. The food was fine, reliable, and the lighting wasn't too harsh. I don't think they were open all night, though.
1) The Blue Angel, at the corner of Northwest Highway, Foster, and Milwaukee (probably officially in Jefferson, not Norwood, Park) . The Blue Angel is, in my eyes, my cultural ground zero. My friends from the city seem utterly confused by this, but I love that restaurant. I drank hot tea there when I could hardly afford the water. I have seem many friends vomit and/or fall asleep on the tables, although I have never done either myself. The food was consistent and plentiful, and the waitresses wore these huge black tents that passed as uniforms and little white hats. My friend Dan once tried to buy beer there, when we were underage, and the waitress laughed at him. What's not to like? To me, the Blue Angel is the model, the template, for a great diner. Open twenty-four hours, too.
